This chukar dish is a great use for your morel mushrooms this spring. (Photo courtesy of Jenny Nguyen-Wheatley)
I traveled to Britain recently and noticed chicken and mushroom pie on many pub menus. The dish is exactly as it sounds: chicken and mushrooms in a thick, aromatic white sauce, all encased in a buttery crust. It’s a fitting foil to Britain’s pitchy steak pies, and The Horse and Groom in Windsor makes a good one. After a full morning of navigating London public transportation and sightseeing one spring day in May, my husband and I looked into the old pub and were astonished that it has been around since at least 1719 under King George I. The small, timber-framed building itself has been standing since the 16th century.
Along with our ale, Rick had bangers and mash, while I ventured the chicken and wild mushroom pie. Enveloped in crispy pastry, the pie filling was hot, creamy, and full of tender chicken and savory mushrooms. Yet, there was something different about it. I detected a flavor reminiscent of curry, but not quite. The pie was memorable, and I made a note to make it with upland game when I returned home.
My best guess at the unique flavor is tarragon—an herb that classically pairs well with poultry and wild game birds, such as chukar, pheasant, and quail. Tarragon has a delicate anise flavor, and if used sparingly, can transform cream-based dishes into something special. This recipe is easy—it’s my no-fuss version of the pie I had in Windsor, with a few departures.
If you don’t have chukar, use pheasant. The morel mushrooms can be substituted as well—use whatever wild or store-bought mushrooms you like. My filling turned out a bit lighter than the Horse and Groom’s. I suspect they use double cream in their recipe, so if you want a creamier filling, add a splash of heavy cream. For the best results, I urge you to track down Dufour Classic Puff Pastry. Dufour is buttery and flavorful—it’s miles better than Pepperidge Farm, which I’ve always found bland. It’s worth the splurge.
Using wild morel mushrooms rounds out this wild chukar dish. (Photo courtesy of Jenny Nguyen-Wheatley) Chukar and Wild Mushroom Pie Serves: 4-6 Prep Time: 1 hours Cooking Time: 1 hours
Ingredients:
1 pound of chukar (or pheasant) breast, boneless 14-ounce package of Dufour Classic Puff Pastry, thawed Olive oil 6 ounces of morel mushrooms (or 1 ounce dried) 2 tablespoons butter 2 to 3 small leeks 1 1⁄2 cups waxy potato, diced small 1 shallot, minced 3 cloves of garlic, minced 1⁄2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves, minced 1⁄4 teaspoons dried tarragon 6 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 1⁄2 cup low-sodium chicken/game stock, heated 1 cup of whole milk, heated Grated zest of 1 lemon 1 teaspoon lemon juice Kosher salt & cracked pepper, to taste 1 egg plus 1 teaspoon water, beaten Directions:
If using dried mushrooms, submerge them in hot water, and set aside to rehydrate for at least 30 minutes (or overnight); use a plate to keep the mushrooms weighed down. Trim off dark green parts on the leeks and cut remaining white and light green parts lengthwise into halves or fourths. Wash between the layers to get rid of dirt and grit. Finely chop leeks and allow to drip dry in a colander. Cut chukar breasts into bite-size pieces and season with salt and pepper. Pour enough oil to coat a large nonstick skillet and heat over medium-high. Cook chukar pieces just long enough for the outside to color and then transfer to a plate. Lower heat to medium and add more oil if needed. Add mushrooms, a pinch of salt, and sauté until mushrooms are no longer soggy. Set aside with the cooked chukar. Add 11⁄2 cups of the chopped leek, butter, and potato to the pan. Sauté for 2 minutes, and then lower heat to low. Cover the pan and allow to cook for about 10 minutes, or until potatoes become tender but not falling apart. Stir occasionally and do not allow browning. Next, stir in minced shallot, garlic, thyme, tarragon, and flour and sauté for 2 minutes. Increase heat to medium and slowly stir in hot stock—one splash at time—stirring constantly and allowing the stock to absorb each time. Repeat with the hot milk and allow to slightly bubble to thicken—do not scorch. Stir in the chukar and mushrooms, along with lemon zest, lemon juice, and salt (about 1⁄4-1⁄2 teaspoons) and pepper to taste. Err on the side of slightly saltier, accounting for the addition of the pastry crust.As you sauté the potatoes and leeks, allow the potatoes to get soft but not crumbly. (Photo courtesy of Jenny Nguyen-Wheatley) Spray a standard pie dish with non-stick spray. Pour in the filling and allow it to cool for about 15 minutes. Then, spread out thawed puff pastry over the pie dish. Trim off excess dough, and crimp as desired. Brush egg wash over the dough and allow it to rest in the refrigerator for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, preheat oven to 375° Fahrenheit. Finally, bake pie for 30 minutes on the middle rack, or until the crust is nicely golden and risen.
